Alive at the Dead Sea

We woke up bright and early Thursday morning to catch the Egged Bus to the Dead Sea. It was quite a long bus ride. First the bus went to Jerusalem and then followed the West Bank down to the sea. The sea has receded into two different seas now (the sea recedes about 50 meters per year). The upper sea is mainly military land, desert, and a few resorts. The guidebook recommended heading to the free beach, Ein Bokek, on the smaller sea.

Ein Bokek was a great free beach, better than I expected. There were open showers, some changing rooms, a pay bathroom, and a restaurant. You could also rent chairs and umbrellas if you so wish, but we have no problem laying down a rug and staying in the sun. However, I was beginning to wish for an umbrella when temperatures topped 44⁰C (111⁰ F). Instead we grabbed a beer at the restaurant in front of the ice fans to cool off and escaped the steady line of children running from the sea screaming in agony because they tried to put their face underwater. I don’t recommend bringing children to the Dead Sea.

We somehow managed to not get salt in our eyes or mouths, though the salt irritated a two day old shaving burn. It also healed up the scratch I received from a stray cat. The Dead Sea, once thought to be the Devil’s land, is quite healing. You will be petting your skin for days after visiting the sea.

Friday was a lazy day. We did not even leave the apartment until close to four. This time Inbal was able to come with us to the beach. We had a lovely hour in the sun and high waves before we had to pack it in because the cold evening breeze started. I was ready to pack it in, because the Mediterranean decided to make up for the lack of salt I received internally at the Dead Sea.

Inbal went to work and Matt and I walked along the promenade to Jaffa. Jaffa, just a few miles down the coast from Tel Aviv, is the supposed setting of Andromeda. It later became a major port for the Crusaders (Tel Aviv wasn’t settled yet), and Napoleon was there too.

We spent a long while taking night shots of Tel Aviv and Jaffa, enjoying the colonial architecture (including an old jail that is now home to thousands of bats), the maze of house walls, and Andromeda’s rock. We stopped and ate bagel sandwiches from the best baker in Israel, taking the bagels to go and ate them overlooking the sea and Tel Aviv. After eating, we found a bar and had Goldstar beer at a tiny table.

Jaffa

Saturday was spent at Inbal’s parents for Shabbat dinner. I learned how to play Sheshbesh and beat Matt at one game. After sundown, we hit a bar down the street from Matt’s for happy hour. Sunday we went back to Carmel Market for more souvenirs.